The Bandai-Azuma Skyline (Route 115) in Fukushima is one of Japan's signature volcano-touring roads. The road runs through highland country above 1,600 m, with bleak volcanic landscape and a sweeping mountain panorama right in front of you. I've ridden it on the SR400 and on the XSR900, on different trips.
Jōdodaira — sulfur and fumaroles
The center of the route is Jōdodaira. From here you can look down into the crater of Azuma-Kofuji, with fumaroles dotted around the area and a constant smell of sulfur in the air. There aren't many places in Japan where "I'm riding on top of a volcano" actually feels true.
Autumn color over volcanic ground
October on the Azuma range was peak foliage. Beyond the red and yellow ridge sits the dull-gray volcanic-rock zone. The contrast between those colors is overwhelming.
Access and notes
The Bandai-Azuma Skyline has a winter closure (typically November through April). For autumn color, mid-October is the window — but mountain weather changes fast. Fog rolled in that afternoon, so finishing the ride in the morning was the right call.
The standard route starts at the "Tsuchiyu Road Park" roadside stop and heads north. Plenty of viewpoints along the way mean you can pull over often. Expect some traffic at the foliage peak.
SR400 vs. XSR900, same road
I've done this route twice — once on the SR400, once on the XSR900. The SR400 with its vibration and low-rev torque feels like you're crawling along the volcano surface. The XSR900, with power to spare, lets you ride steady and just take in the view. Neither is "right." The same road, different bike, different experience — this route makes you feel that.
Riding on top of a volcano is a different category from a typical mountain pass. The rock face is bare, no trees, the air smells of sulfur. And yet the road itself is well-maintained and easy to ride. Worth doing at least once.