What is Costa Rica Like? Nature, Safety, and Daily Life from a Former Resident
A small Central American country, Costa Rica. Despite its area being only about the size of Japan's Kyushu and Shikoku combined (51,100 km²), it's home to about 5% of the world's biodiversity.
How to Visit Volcán Irazú: The Day I Couldn't See the Crater Lake
A trip to the volcano on Costa Rica's coat of arms. After a 2-hour bus ride to see the famous emerald-green crater lake, I found nothing.
Christmas and New Year in Costa Rica: Tamales, Firecrackers, and the Festival of Light
Costa Rica's holiday season — Festival de la Luz parade, Christmas tamales made with the whole family, bullfights and nonstop firecrackers ringing in the new year.
Costa Rica's Japanese School and The Color Run: Children and a Festival in San José
A visit to the Japanese school in San José for sports day, and the Color Run that turned the capital's streets into bursts of color.
Manuel Antonio National Park: Costa Rica During Semana Santa
A Semana Santa trip from San José to Manuel Antonio National Park — sloths, monkeys, and beaches packed with holiday travelers.
Costa Rica & Central American Food: Gallo Pinto, Ceviche, Rice & Beans
A guide to the dishes I ate across Central America — ceviche, gallo pinto, rice & beans — and a recipe to make gallo pinto at home.
Working as a Physical Therapist in Costa Rica: A Patient Who Walked Again with a Homemade Brace
Working at a clinic in southern Costa Rica, I built a 8,000-yen ankle-foot orthosis from sandals, baseball pads and a metal post — and a stroke patient walked on it.
Caño Negro and Monteverde: A New Year Trip Looking for Wildlife
A New Year trip from Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge to the Monteverde Cloud Forest — boat tours, sloths, motmots, capuchin monkeys, and a night tour of frogs and snakes.
Going to Ostional for the Arribada: The Day I Missed the Olive Ridley Mass Nesting
A 14-hour bus trip across Costa Rica to see thousands of Olive Ridley turtles laying eggs — and arriving a week late.
Returning to Costa Rica After 10 Years: A Changed San José and the Same Pilsen
A 2025 trip back to Costa Rica, ten years after I lived there as a JICA volunteer. San José had changed; Pilsen and Imperial hadn't.
Crossing the Border from Costa Rica to Nicaragua: TICA BUS to Ometepe Island
My first border crossing in Central America: long-distance TICA BUS from Costa Rica to Nicaragua, then ferry from San Jorge to volcanic Ometepe Island.
One Day on Ometepe Island: Ojo de Agua and the Sights of a Volcanic Island
I arrived on Ometepe Island late on a Saturday afternoon. Sunday means no buses, so I hired a guide for about US$40 — pricey at first glance, but far more efficient than crossing the island alone by motorbike taxi.
Walking Granada: Colonial Nicaragua and the Soy Nica Leather Shop
A 6 a.m. ferry off Ometepe Island, then on to Granada — Central America's oldest colonial city. Cathedrals, the Convento San Francisco museum, vigorón, Toña beer, and the leather shop that alone is worth a trip to Nicaragua.
Managua and Masaya: Crafts Markets and Old Friends in Nicaragua's Capital
Leaving Granada behind, I stopped in the crafts town of Masaya on the way to the capital, Managua. Hammocks and ceramics in the market — and a Japanese dinner with old friends.
Walking León: Sandinista Memory and the City of Rubén Darío
A long-distance bus from Managua to León, in northern Nicaragua. León means 'lion' in Spanish, and a stone lion sits in front of the cathedral. Sandinista memory, Rubén Darío's house, the Heroes & Martyrs gallery, and a lobster lunch.
Touring the Flor de Caña Distillery: Tasting Nicaragua's Rum
The day before leaving León, I took a bus alone to Chichigalpa — the town that's home to Flor de Caña, one of Central America's signature rums. A 1890-founded distillery, oak barrels, and a 20-year tasting that changed my mind about rum.
Mexico City Historic Center: Walking the Zócalo, Templo Mayor, and Cathedral
A walk through Mexico City's historic center: the Zócalo, the Metropolitan Cathedral built atop Aztec foundations, the Templo Mayor ruins, and the Art Nouveau Palacio Postal.
The Basílica de Guadalupe: Tepeyac Hill and the Miracle of the Tilma
The Basílica de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe draws tens of millions of pilgrims a year and ranks among the most-visited religious sites in the world. After two years in Costa Rica I'd grown curious about how Catholic faith blends with Indigenous belief in Latin America — this was a place I had to see.
Walking Mexico City: Revolución Monument, Local Breakfast, and Street Art
Mexico City is too big to just shuttle from one tourist site to the next. The side streets are full of breakfast stalls, walls covered in graffiti, and tented vendors — a face of the city you don't see from the headline attractions.
Mexico Souvenirs: Walmart Is the Hidden Gem
Tourist souvenir shops are overpriced and inconsistent. The local supermarket is often a better source. In Mexico City, Walmart is everywhere — perfect for a last-minute bulk souvenir run before flying home.
Ancient Mexico at the National Museum of Anthropology: The Sun Stone, Coatlicue, and Olmec Heads
My first trip to Mexico. The first place I went in the high-altitude capital was the National Museum of Anthropology — where the Sun Stone, Coatlicue, and the Olmec colossal heads stand right behind the glass.
Guanajuato, the "Jewel Box City": Pípila at Night, the Alley of the Kiss, and the Mummy Museum
Guanajuato, a UNESCO World Heritage city at 2,000 m, where colorful houses climb the hillsides like a jewel box. The night view from the Pípila monument, the legend of the Alley of the Kiss, and the surprising history behind the Mummy Museum.
Walking the Teotihuacán Ruins: Pyramid of the Sun, Pyramid of the Moon, and Temple of Quetzalcóatl
About 50 km northeast of Mexico City, the ancient city of Teotihuacán flourished from before the common era. The Pyramid of the Sun, the Pyramid of the Moon, the Avenue of the Dead, and the Temple of Quetzalcóatl — a day spent walking one of Mesoamerica's largest ceremonial cities.
Palenque, the Maya City in the Jungle: Temple of the Inscriptions, Pakal's Tomb, and the Cross Group
A domestic flight from Mexico City to Villahermosa, then by road to Palenque. The Temple of the Inscriptions with one of the largest Maya royal tombs, the Palace with its observation tower, and the Cross Group — walking through Palenque, where the jungle is half-eating the ruins.
Walking Through Santiago: Chile's Supreme Court, Museums, and Historic Center
My first time in South America. Walking through Santiago: the Palacio de los Tribunales, neoclassical architecture, and contemporary art under that incredibly blue Andean sky.
Los Dominicos Crafts Market: Folk Crafts and a White Colonial Church in Santiago
A visit to Los Dominicos Crafts Center in the Las Condes district of Santiago. The work of local artisans and the white colonial church next door made for a beautiful afternoon.
Last Day in Santiago: Palta Reina and Pre-Christmas City Walks
Final day in Chile. A lunch of Palta Reina — avocado stuffed with chicken salad — and a walk through a mall already decorated for Christmas.
Arriving in Belize City: Caribbean Sunrise and a Walk Through Asian Grocery Stores
After Chile's dry blue sky, landing in Belize: the Caribbean at sunrise, English as the official language, and Japanese food found in Chinese-run grocery stores.
Caye Caulker and a Great Blue Hole Scenic Flight: Belize from the Air
A day on Belize's
Walking Belize City: The Swing Bridge and a Last Day
A last day in Belize City, looking at the historic Swing Bridge and reflecting on a country that mixes the Caribbean and Central America.
Visiting Panamá Viejo: 500-Year-Old Ruins and Spanish Colonial History
Panamá Viejo, the first Panama City, founded in 1519 by Spanish settlers and burned in 1671. Its stone ruins now stand against the modern Panama City skyline.
Walking Casco Viejo and the Mercado de Mariscos: A World Heritage Old Town and a Fish Market
Panama City after Panamá Viejo: the Mercado de Mariscos (fish market built with Japanese aid), Casco Viejo (UNESCO old town), and the Canal Museum.
Visiting the Miraflores Locks: Watching a Massive Ship Pass Through the Panama Canal
A trip to the Miraflores Locks on the Panama Canal's Pacific side, watching the JIUYANG BLOSSOM car carrier squeeze through the lock walls.
Joya de Cerén and Tazumal: El Salvador's World Heritage and Maya Ruins
A trip to El Salvador to visit a friend on JOCV: the Joya de Cerén UNESCO site (the
Climbing Santa Ana Volcano: Hiking to a Crater Lake with a Police Escort
Climbing Volcán Santa Ana — El Salvador's highest peak — to see its emerald-green crater lake, with a police escort along the trail and Volcán Izalco rising in the distance.
XSR900 Solo Tour in Chiba: Kasamori Kannon and the Bōsō Mountain Roads
A spring ride through Chiba on the XSR900. The destination: Kasamori Kannon, an old temple hall built atop a natural rock outcrop in a structural style unique in Japan.
Tokyo Motorcycle Show 2026: Bikes and Side Bags That Caught My Eye
An AMBOOT side bag, the CBR400R FOUR, a customized CT125. The things that stuck with me from walking the Tokyo Motorcycle Show 2026 floor.
Two Days in Niigata Summer: The Tsunan Sunflower Field and the Nagaoka Fireworks
Day one in the Tsunan sunflower field, day two at the Nagaoka Fireworks Festival. A two-day Niigata summer packed in.
Zao and Ginzan Onsen, Two Days: Okama Crater Lake, an Open-Air Bath in the Forest, and a Taishō-Era Night
Two days in Yamagata. Zao's huge open-air bath, the eerie Okama crater lake, and the night view of Ginzan Onsen — a hot-spring street that feels like it walked out of a Taishō-era postcard.
Visiting the Chibanian Stratotype: A Chiba Touring Day with a Wild Boar and a Bike Warning Light
Took the bike to the Chibanian outcrop in Ichihara, Chiba — the geomagnetic-reversal layer that gave its name to a slice of Earth's history. Got close to a wild boar, picked up something in the rear tire, and watched the engine warning light come on for good measure.
The Tōrōzaka Daishi Cut-Through Tunnel: Returning to Chiba's Photogenic Spot on the XSR900
The Tōrōzaka Daishi cut-through tunnel in Futtsu, Chiba. Three years after first visiting on an SR400, I went back on an XSR900. The bike had changed; the tunnel hadn't.
Cape Irago, Solo: A Year-End Coast Walk and a Lot of Wind in Aichi
Year-end, headed to Cape Irago in Aichi. Walked around in serious wind, and left with a craving for bakagai clams I ended up not eating.
Izu Peninsula Two-Day Tour: Ashinoko Skyline and the West Izu Route
A two-day tour through the Izu Peninsula on an XSR900. No grand theme — but day two on the Ashinoko Skyline turned out to be reason enough to come.
Touring the Noto Peninsula: Sōji-ji Soin Temple and Sashimi with Gold Leaf
August 2022 — riding the Noto Peninsula. The mountain gate of Sōji-ji Soin temple was massive, and the izakaya in Kanazawa served sashimi topped with gold leaf. The food in Ishikawa was good across the board.
Walking the Goshikinuma 'Five-Color Ponds' of Urabandai, Fukushima
In Kitashiobara, Fukushima, Goshikinuma is the collective name for a cluster of ponds in Urabandai. Each one carries a different color — emerald green, cobalt blue, milky blue — and the surface shifts with the angle and the weather.
Riding the Bandai-Azuma Skyline: Volcanic Country in Fukushima
The Bandai-Azuma Skyline (Route 115) in Fukushima is one of Japan's signature volcano-touring roads. Highland riding above 1,600 m, with stark volcanic landscape and sweeping mountain panoramas — ridden once on the SR400 and once on the XSR900.
Fitting a Power Beam to the SR400: Vibration Reduction on Long-Distance Touring
One of the standing complaints with an SR400 is the vibration on long-distance rides. After 300 km in one direction, both hands were numb.
![Ōarai → Tomakomai by Sunflower Ferry: First Day in Sapporo [SR400 Hokkaido Tour ①]](../images/hokkaido/tomakomai-ferry.jpg)
Ōarai → Tomakomai by Sunflower Ferry: First Day in Sapporo [SR400 Hokkaido Tour ①]
Solo Hokkaido on an SR400. The Sunflower ferry from Ōarai to Tomakomai, then onto Sapporo for the Red Brick Building and Ramen Ichiryūan. June 2021.
![Sapporo to Wakkanai via Ishikari and the Ororon Line [SR400 Hokkaido Tour ②]](../images/hokkaido/オロロンライン.jpg)
Sapporo to Wakkanai via Ishikari and the Ororon Line [SR400 Hokkaido Tour ②]
Sapporo north through Ishikari, the Roadside Station Airoad Atsuta, an ikura-don at Obira-Nishin-Banya, then up the Ororon Line past Teshio's wind farms to Wakkanai's North Breakwater Dome.
Cape Sōya, the White Road, the Esanuka Line
Morning uni-ikura don in Wakkanai, the White Road and Cape Sōya at Japan's northernmost point, the Esanuka Line bringing me close to tears. That night in Monbetsu, on the road up to the Okhotsk Sky Tower for stargazing, I came face-to-face with a Higuma. SR400 Hokkaido tour, day 3.
![Monbetsu to Biei: Blue Pond and the Patchwork Road [SR400 Hokkaido Tour ④]](../images/hokkaido/aoi-ike-pano.jpg)
Monbetsu to Biei: Blue Pond and the Patchwork Road [SR400 Hokkaido Tour ④]
From Monbetsu, a break at Saerubu-no-oka in Kamifurano, then on to Biei for the Blue Pond, the Ken & Mary Tree, and the Patchwork Road. A day connecting Hokkaido's icons in one ride.
![Furano's Farm Tomita to Tomakomai: Sunflower Ferry Back to Ōarai [SR400 Hokkaido Tour ⑤]](../images/hokkaido/furano-lavender.jpg)
Furano's Farm Tomita to Tomakomai: Sunflower Ferry Back to Ōarai [SR400 Hokkaido Tour ⑤]
Out of Biei, Farm Tomita lavender and soft serve, a Yūbari melon at a highway PA, and one last seafood bowl at Tomakomai before boarding the Sunflower. The last day of the SR400 Hokkaido tour.
![Ōarai → Tomakomai by Sunflower Ferry [XSR900 Hokkaido Tour ①]](../images/hokkaido-xsr900/20250819_070951847_iOS.jpg)
Ōarai → Tomakomai by Sunflower Ferry [XSR900 Hokkaido Tour ①]
Heading to Hokkaido on an XSR900. Boarding the Sunflower at Ōarai Port, bound for Tomakomai. The moment we cast off, the trip began.
![Tomakomai to Obihiro: Nibutani Ainu Museum and Tokachi Buta-don [XSR900 Hokkaido Tour ②]](../images/hokkaido-xsr900/20250820_054937983_iOS.jpg)
Tomakomai to Obihiro: Nibutani Ainu Museum and Tokachi Buta-don [XSR900 Hokkaido Tour ②]
Off the ferry at Tomakomai West Port, then on through the Yoshitsune Shrine and the Nibutani Ainu Culture Museum in Biratori, ending in Obihiro for a Tokachi pork bowl at Ippin.
The Eastern Hokkaido Route
Obihiro to Nemuro by way of Kushiro. Seafood at Kushiro Suisan Center, an unplanned stop at Akkeshi Distillery and oysters, the lighthouse at Cape Nosappu, and crab in Nemuro.
![Eastern Hokkaido Touring: Cape Nosappu to Shiretoko Five Lakes [XSR900 Hokkaido Tour ④]](../images/hokkaido-xsr900/20250822_073520142_iOS.jpg)
Eastern Hokkaido Touring: Cape Nosappu to Shiretoko Five Lakes [XSR900 Hokkaido Tour ④]
Morning back at Cape Nosappu and the Northern Territories museum, then north to Shiretoko Five Lakes and the Road to Heaven — the 28 km straight-line road that gives it its name.
![Kaminoko Pond, Bihoro Pass, Abashiri Prison Museum [XSR900 Hokkaido Tour ⑤]](../images/hokkaido-xsr900/20250823_022248708_iOS.jpg)
Kaminoko Pond, Bihoro Pass, Abashiri Prison Museum [XSR900 Hokkaido Tour ⑤]
A packed loop: the cobalt-blue Kaminoko Pond, the foggy Bihoro Pass, and the open-air Abashiri Prison Museum — and the history of how convicts built Hokkaido's central road.
Lost a Wallet in Esashi
Out of Monbetsu up the Okhotsk coast. The wallet flew out of an open side case in Esashi — and an AirTag and a kind local turned a disaster into a story.
Down the Ororon Line
A long ride south from Wakkanai to Asahikawa on the Ororon Line, ending with dinner at the local izakaya 'Kogorō' in Asahikawa.
![Biei Blue Pond and Shirahige Falls to Tomakomai [XSR900 Hokkaido Tour ⑧]](../images/hokkaido-xsr900/20250826_002032526_iOS.jpg)
Biei Blue Pond and Shirahige Falls to Tomakomai [XSR900 Hokkaido Tour ⑧]
Final day. Asahikawa to Tomakomai via Biei (Blue Pond, Shirahige Falls), collecting Hokuren rider flags along the way, then back to Ōarai by ferry. 2,400 km in total.
![Aomori to Hakodate by Shinkansen: Walking the City at Night [Hokkaido Car Trip ①]](../images/hokkaido-car/hakodate-night-view-2022.jpg)
Aomori to Hakodate by Shinkansen: Walking the City at Night [Hokkaido Car Trip ①]
A 3-night, 4-day Hokkaido car trip in August 2022 begins with a Shinkansen from Aomori to Hakodate. The Hakodate Mountain night view, Lucky Pierrot, and Hakodate Beer.
![Mt. Yōtei, Nikka Yoichi Distillery, and Otaru Canal [Hokkaido Car Trip ②]](../images/hokkaido-car/mt-yotei.jpg)
Mt. Yōtei, Nikka Yoichi Distillery, and Otaru Canal [Hokkaido Car Trip ②]
Day 2 leaves Hakodate at dawn, takes in Mt. Yōtei (Ezo Fuji) and the Mt. Kenashi viewpoint, tours Nikka Whisky Yoichi, the Yoichi Space Dome, and ends in Otaru.
![Shakotan Peninsula Drive: Bikuni Ōgon-misaki, Cape Kamui, and Sea Urchin at Kiyozushi [Hokkaido Car Trip ③]](../images/hokkaido-car/kamui-misaki-pano.jpg)
Shakotan Peninsula Drive: Bikuni Ōgon-misaki, Cape Kamui, and Sea Urchin at Kiyozushi [Hokkaido Car Trip ③]
Day 3 drives the Shakotan Peninsula. The Bikuni Ōgon-misaki, Cape Kamui's 'Shakotan Blue', and a uni-ikura don at Kiyozushi Branch in Bikuni.
![Hakodate Morning Market, Goryōkaku, and the "First Step on Hokkaido" Monument [Hokkaido Car Trip ④]](../images/hokkaido-car/goryokaku.jpg)
Hakodate Morning Market, Goryōkaku, and the "First Step on Hokkaido" Monument [Hokkaido Car Trip ④]
Final day of the Hokkaido car trip: morning at the Hakodate Morning Market with live squid fishing, the star-shaped Goryōkaku, Lucky Pierrot a second time, and the 'First Step on Hokkaido' monument.
Hokkaido Touring Gear List: 2,400 km of Field-Tested Essentials [Gear ①]
The gear that actually mattered after two motorcycle trips across Hokkaido. Bags, wear, rain gear, camping gear, bear deterrents, and gadgets — by category.
![Why You Need Bear Spray on a Shiretoko Tour: UDAP 12HP [Gear ③]](../images/og/hokkaido-bear-spray.jpg)
Why You Need Bear Spray on a Shiretoko Tour: UDAP 12HP [Gear ③]
At the entrance to the Shiretoko Peninsula stands an official sign reading 'Carrying bear spray is recommended.' What I learned about brown bears on a Hokkaido tour, and the UDAP 12HP I packed.
Three Hokkaido Trips: Routes and Lodging from My SR400, Car, and XSR900 Tours
A summary of three Hokkaido trips — two by motorcycle, one by car. Routes, lodging, and standout spots, with maps.
Mori-no-Makiba Auto Campground Review: A Winter Solo Camp, Pricing, and Atmosphere
Mid-December, escaping the year-end noise, I tried a paid auto-campground for the first time. Mori-no-Makiba Auto Campground in Sodegaura, Chiba — a former pasture turned campground.
![Solo Motorcycle Camping Gear: Tent, Sleeping Bag, and Pad [Camp Gear ①]](../images/og/touring-camp-gear.jpg)
Solo Motorcycle Camping Gear: Tent, Sleeping Bag, and Pad [Camp Gear ①]
'OK, I'm going camping by motorcycle this year' — and I built out the kit from scratch. After two solo trips, here are the gear reviews from actually using everything in the field.
Surviving Long-Haul Flights: Small Tweaks to Make Economy a Little More Comfortable
Small things to bring on board that make a long-haul flight in economy noticeably less brutal. Inflatable neck pillow (Tabine), wired earphones (final E3000) with a 2-pin adapter, AirFly Pro, alcohol wipes for contact lenses, heel-droppable 2-way shoes (KEEN HOODMOC HS), and a Samsonite + LOJEL two-suitcase setup — based on actual experience.
Hot Sake at Home: Manjukagami F60 and Hakkaisan Yukimuro 3-Year
A cold front is in. The kind of night that calls for hot sake — and not microwaved either, properly warmed. Bought two bottles to do it right.
Choosing a Spanish Dictionary: Paper, Electronic, and App, Picked by Someone Who Lived in Central America
When you're learning Spanish, picking the right dictionary actually matters. From actually using each kind in Central America, here are three things to look for.