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Last night's bear still in my head, I woke up to a Monbetsu morning. Today the Sea of Okhotsk falls away and the route turns inland — toward Biei and Furano. The way the landscape changes within a single day is part of what makes touring Hokkaido fun.

A break at Kamifurano's Saerubu-no-oka

From Monbetsu, inland. By the time I reached Kamifurano the air had brightened. Saerubu-no-oka is a hilly area known for its flowers — different blooms by season. The lavender wasn't quite up yet in June, but the rolling hills and patchwork pattern were beautiful.

Saerubu-no-oka, Kamifurano
Saerubu-no-oka in Kamifurano. A spot of flower fields and gentle slopes.

Biei — the Blue Pond

A short ride from Kamifurano into Biei. The place I'd most been looking forward to: the Blue Pond. The one that made it onto Mac wallpapers. Until I saw it I half-suspected it was Photoshop. It's not. It really looks like that.

Biei Blue Pond panorama
Biei's Blue Pond. In panorama you can see the dead trees standing right in the water.
Biei's Blue Pond
Going on a clear morning means no backlight, and the blue comes through best.

I'd heard a clear morning is the moment — no backlight, bluest blue — so I went first thing. Just as advertised. Dead trees rising from the surface, like something out of science fiction. And that blue — happily, it does come through in photos.

The Ken & Mary Tree, the Seven Star Tree

Biei has more besides. The Ken & Mary Tree and the Seven Star Tree. A town where a single tree becomes its own destination.

Ken & Mary Tree under starry sky
The Ken & Mary Tree. From sunset into night, once the stars come out, it stands like a silhouette.
Ken & Mary Tree at sunset
The Ken & Mary Tree at sunset, with a wide-open sky behind it.
The Seven Star Tree
The Seven Star Tree. The lone oak that became famous through a cigarette package.

The Patchwork Road, the Roller-Coaster Road

The roads connecting these tree spots are themselves the scenery. The Patchwork Road turns each rolling field into a different colored carpet — riding alone is enjoyable. The Roller-Coaster Road, true to its name, runs straight ahead while pitching up and down all the way to the horizon.

Biei Patchwork Road
The Patchwork Road. Each field a different color across the rolling hills.

Hotel Lavenir (Biei)

After looping Biei, lodging at Hotel Lavenir. The adjacent Roadside Station Biei "Oka-no-kura" stocks local food and crafts. Tomorrow: the lavender at Furano, then the final leg to Tomakomai.

From Okhotsk to Biei, the landscape shifts within a single day. Hokkaido is wide — the body learns it.

Spots from this day

1
Saerubu-no-oka
Nishi 8-sen Kita 27, Kamifurano Town, Sorachi District, Hokkaido / A hill of flower fields and panoramic views.
2
Biei Blue Pond
Shirogane, Biei Town, Kamikawa District, Hokkaido / ~20 min by car from JR Biei Station. Parking available (¥500 for cars).
3
Ken & Mary Tree
Ōkubo-Kyōsei, Biei Town, Hokkaido / The poplar that became famous from a 1972 Nissan ad.
4
Seven Star Tree
Hokuei, Biei Town, Hokkaido / The lone oak used on the 1976 "Seven Stars" cigarette package.
5
Patchwork Road
Northwestern Biei Town, Hokkaido / Area famous for its patchwork field patterns.
6
Hotel Lavenir (Biei)
1-chōme Honchō, Biei Town, Hokkaido / Hotel adjacent to Roadside Station Biei "Oka-no-kura."