Early afternoon at Tomakomai West Port. Stepping off the ferry, the Hokkaido air hits you all at once. Low humidity. Wide sky. Roll the bike off the deck, fire it up, and at last it sinks in: I'm in Hokkaido.
Yoshitsune Shrine
Before heading to Obihiro I stopped in Biratori. Riding along Route 237, the torii of Yoshitsune Shrine appears. There's a legend that Minamoto no Yoshitsune survived and crossed over to Ezo (Hokkaido), and a shrine dedicated to him stands in Biratori.
It happened to be Obon. The shrine grounds were lined with countless paper lanterns.
Biratori Town Nibutani Ainu Culture Museum
A bit further on from Yoshitsune Shrine you reach Nibutani. The Biratori Town Nibutani Ainu Culture Museum stands in this area, long known as a place where Ainu culture is preserved. Daily implements, garments, and crafts of the Ainu are on display. Different from a large national facility like Upopoy — a small, locally rooted museum with a quieter feel.
Obihiro — Tokachi Buta-don at Ippin
From Shiraoi I rode east to Obihiro. One of the goals of this Hokkaido tour was "eat a Tokachi pork bowl." Obihiro is known as the birthplace of the buta-don, and the city has a cluster of well-known shops.
I went to Tokachi Buta-don Ippin. The signage has a heavy, old-school weight to it.
The pork bowl arrives with a sweet-savory tare clinging to charcoal-grilled pork — rice goes fast. A simple dish, but you feel: this is Hokkaido food. I would have happily gone to a second shop in Obihiro, but there's a long road ahead. Tonight's lodging is in town; tomorrow at last toward eastern Hokkaido.