From Costa Rica to Nicaragua. My first border crossing — by long-distance bus.
Crossing the Border on TICA BUS
TICA BUS is a solid choice between Costa Rica and Nicaragua. Among the long-distance bus companies in Central America it's relatively reliable and traveler-friendly. You handle the border paperwork yourself after getting off the bus, but if you go with the flow of the people around you, you'll figure it out.
Destination: Ometepe Island
The first stop in Nicaragua was Ometepe Island. Two volcanoes rising out of Lake Nicaragua — one of the world's largest freshwater lakes. "Ometepe" means "two mountains" in Nahuatl.
The lake is famous for once being home to freshwater sharks. Today there are concerns about pollution and ecosystem changes — environmental challenges. There were also discussions at that time about a proposed Nicaragua Canal, which was sparking various debates locally.
Ferry and Negotiating with Taxi Drivers
To get to the island, you go via Rivas to a port town called San Jorge and take a ferry. You take a taxi to the ferry pier, and that's where the first shock comes — fare negotiation.
If you don't know the going rate you'll get charged too much. It's important to research the rate ahead of time and negotiate. Ask "how much?", and when they answer, start by halving — that's the Central American way.
First-time border crossings are tense, but you generally figure them out. Ask the people around you when you don't know.
That solves most of the problems.
Travel guide (general info)
※ This section combines public information with the author's notes; please confirm the latest entry, safety, and operating details on the official sites.
Costa Rica ⇔ Nicaragua border (Peñas Blancas)
- The main land crossing is Peñas Blancas (same name on both sides). Long-distance buses between San José and Managua all pass through here.
- Entering Nicaragua requires a departure tax + tourist card (about US$13 total). Costa Rica also charges its own exit tax (US$2–10 equivalent, credit card accepted).
- The main long-distance bus operators are TICA BUS and Transnica. San José ⇔ Managua takes about 9 hours.
- Demonstrations and shifting security conditions can occasionally lengthen border crossings. Check your government's travel advisory before leaving.
Ometepe Island and Lake Nicaragua
- "Ometepe" comes from Nahuatl ome+tepetl ("two mountains"). Concepción Volcano (1,610 m, active) and Maderas Volcano (1,394 m, dormant) are linked by a sand isthmus, giving the island its hourglass shape.
- Lake Nicaragua (Lago Cocibolca) is the largest lake in Central America and one of the world's twenty largest freshwater lakes (~8,264 km²).
- The lake was once world-famous for its bull sharks that swim upriver, but overfishing and river-mouth nets have collapsed the population.
- A Chinese-backed grand canal project was approved in 2014 but later effectively shelved; the ecological impact on the lake was widely debated internationally.
San Jorge → Ometepe ferry & practical info
- From San Jorge port (near Rivas), several ferries run daily to Moyogalpa. About one hour, just a few US dollars.
- Taxi fares between the port, the border, and bus stations are negotiable. The Central American move is to start at half the asking price.
- ATMs on the island are scarce — bring US dollars and córdobas from the mainland.
- Lodging clusters in Moyogalpa (the gateway) and Altagracia / Santa Cruz (the central area). For volcano hikes, Santa Cruz is most convenient.
References
All the travel information for Nicaragua and Central America in one book — the Japanese-language "Globe-Trotter Travel Guidebook: Central America" covers Guatemala, Belize, El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, and Panama. A go-to guidebook in Japanese.
