I decided to take the XSR900 to Hokkaido. The goal was eastern Hokkaido, somewhere I'd never managed to reach — Nemuro, Shiretoko, Abashiri. A different route from the SR400 trip, this time ridden full-throttle to the end.
The ferry was the Sunflower (Mitsui O.S.K. Lines), Ōarai to Tomakomai. Depart at night, arrive the following early afternoon — the rider's standard route. I packed everything into the seat bag and the side bags and headed for Ōarai Port in the afternoon.
After check-in and watching them lash the bike to the deck, it was time to relax in the cabin. This time I'd booked a Comfort-grade private room. Hang the helmet and jacket on the wall, lay out your gear, and the place becomes your own little "trip territory." I love that feeling.
After departure, dinner in the restaurant, a soak in the public bath, then to bed early. We pull into Tomakomai the following early afternoon. About 19 hours at sea. The hours you can't ride are still part of a rider's trip — and spending them on the boat isn't bad at all.
The moment we left Ōarai, it already felt like Hokkaido had begun.
Travel guide (general info)
※ This section combines public information with the author's notes; please confirm the latest fares, hours, and road conditions on the official sites.
Sunflower Ferry (Ōarai⇄Tomakomai)
- Operator: MOL Sunflower; evening service (Ōarai 18:45 dep. / 13:30 arr. next day) and a late-night service, about 19 hours
- Summer motorcycle slots: fill up fast, so book 2–3 months ahead
- Cabin classes: range from Tourist S (open berth) up to suites; private rooms make a big difference on long crossings
- Onboard facilities: public bath, restaurant, observation deck; Wi-Fi speeds are limited
Tips for loading the bike
- Bikes are tied down with ropes at boarding; rest on the side stand and engage the steering lock
- Keep what you need onboard (change of clothes, toiletries, charger) in the top layer of your top case
- Carry small change/cash for vending machines and the shop; only the main register accepts credit cards