In August 2022, I planned a 3-night, 4-day Hokkaido car trip. The year before I'd ridden the SR400 around Hokkaido — this time I wanted to take it slower, in a car.
Day 1 began after work in Aomori. I caught the evening Hokkaido Shinkansen from Shin-Aomori to Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto, then took the JR line into Hakodate. By the time I arrived, even the long Hokkaido summer day was tilting toward evening. The rental car would come tomorrow morning. Tonight: walk Hakodate.
Stepping off at Hakodate Station
Hakodate Station is a modern port-town station; the air of the city flows in through its glass entrance. Now that the Shinkansen connects Tōhoku to Hokkaido, Hakodate is a rare northern city you can reach without a plane or a ferry.
A Hakodate burger at Lucky Pierrot
You can't avoid Lucky Pierrot in Hakodate. Founded in 1987, this local burger chain has more than ten branches in the Hakodate area; for locals, it's closer to the soul than McDonald's. I went into the Hakodate Ekimae branch and ordered the signature Chinese Chicken Burger. Freshly fried chicken with a sweet-spicy sauce — a flavor you only get in Hakodate.
Hachiman-zaka — a slope at twilight
A walk before dinner. I headed for one of Hakodate's classic spots, Hachiman-zaka. The slope drops in a straight line from the Motomachi district down to Hakodate Port, framing harbor and sea like a single picture from the top. It was twilight, streetlamps starting to come on one by one, the sky still keeping a hint of blue. A spot that's appeared in countless commercials and dramas — emblematic of Hakodate.
Mt. Hakodate — one of the world's three great night views
After dark, up to the summit of Mt. Hakodate by ropeway. The night view from 334 m is famously bracketed with Naples and Hong Kong as one of the world's three great night views — and it really does live up to it. The narrow sandbar between Hakodate Bay and the Tsugaru Strait pinches the city's lights into a distinctive pinched-waist silhouette. You won't see this geometry anywhere else.
HAKODATE BEER and a seafood bowl
Down from the summit. Next stop: Hakodate Beer, a local brewery housed in a brick-warehouse-style building near the port. It sits in the Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse area, a short walk from Meijikan.
Dinner had to be seafood. Hakodate's fish quality is its own league. A classic three-color don of squid, sea urchin, and salmon roe with miso soup. The fatigue from the Shinkansen evaporated.
Tomorrow, the rental car comes out properly. Mt. Yōtei, Yoichi, Otaru — Hokkaido scenery and a whisky distillery on the schedule.
The Hakodate I arrived in by Shinkansen felt a little richer than usual. A nice welcome from the city to start the drive.
Travel guide (general info)
※ This section combines public information with the author's notes; please confirm the latest fares, hours, and road conditions on the official sites.
Reaching Hakodate by Hokkaido Shinkansen
- Tokyo⇄Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto: about 4 hours on the "Hayabusa"; check times and fares on the official timetable.
- Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto → Hakodate Station: about 20 min on the Hakodate Liner local train, timed to Shinkansen arrivals.
- Rental cars: major branches at both Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto and Hakodate stations; book early in summer.
Mt. Hakodate night view
- One of the world's "three great night views": ranked alongside Naples and Hong Kong — a carpet of light flanked by sea on both sides.
- Access: Mt. Hakodate Ropeway (about 3 min) or the summit bus. In summer (around Apr 25–Sep 30) private cars and rentals are banned from the summit road due to traffic restrictions.
- Best timing: arrive 30 min before sunset to catch the sunset → blue hour → night view sequence.
- Avoiding crowds: weekdays and unsettled weather are quieter; the ropeway runs every 20 min.
Hakodate by night
- Hachiman-zaka: a slope in the Motomachi district where the lit street trees frame the bay area at night.
- HAKODATE BEER: a local-beer restaurant near Hakodate Station serving five house craft beers.
- Lucky Pierrot Bay Area Main Store: harbour-side branch of the Hakodate-only burger chain; open late.