How many years had I been telling myself I'd ride to Hokkaido? Riding your own bike on those "straight roads to the horizon" is the kind of thing every motorcyclist dreams about at least once. In June 2021, I finally made it happen — and I want to keep a record of that first day.
My partner: an SR400, a 400 cc air-cooled single, simple to a fault. The moment I rolled aboard the ferry with all my gear, the excitement was so high I could barely sleep.
Boarding the Sunflower
The ferry was the Sunflower (Mitsui O.S.K. Lines), Ōarai to Tomakomai. Depart at night, arrive the following early afternoon — the standard route every rider knows. After check-in, the SR400 was lashed down on the vehicle deck and I was free to relax in the cabin.
After departure, dinner in the restaurant, a soak in the public bath, and an early bedtime. Around 19 hours at sea before pulling into Tomakomai. The hours you can't ride are still part of a rider's trip — you spend them on the boat.
Landing in Tomakomai — first time in Hokkaido
Early afternoon the next day, we pulled into Tomakomai West Port. That feeling of "this is Hokkaido now" as you ride off the stern of the ferry never gets old. I rolled the SR400 off, fueled up, and headed for the first stop: Sapporo.
A walk past Sapporo's Red Brick Building
Tomakomai to Sapporo is about an hour and a half on surface roads. Once in town, the first stop was the former Hokkaido Government Office — known to everyone as the "Red Brick Building." Completed in 1888 in an American Neo-Baroque style, it's a Sapporo landmark.
Late-afternoon light hit the brick and the building looked heavier than it does in photos. Tourists were sparse. I sat on a bench and tried to imagine the week of riding ahead.
The miso ramen that erased the ferry fatigue
You don't leave Sapporo without ramen. I'd already scouted Ramen Ichiryūan, a famously busy spot near Sapporo Station with their signature "Energy Miso Ramen." The Hokkaido miso went deep, the lard added richness, and the bowl sank straight into a body that was still tired from the ferry.
The Ororon Line waits — first night in Sapporo
That night's lodging was Hotel Livemax Sapporo Ekimae. I parked the SR400, hauled the gear up to the room, took a shower, and dropped into bed. Tomorrow it's north on the Ororon Line, aiming for Wakkanai and Cape Sōya. Hokkaido proper starts now.
The instant I stepped off the ferry, the Hokkaido air was already different. From here, a week of riding to the horizon.
Travel guide (general info)
※ This section combines public information with the author's notes; please confirm the latest fares, hours, and road conditions on the official sites.
Sunflower Ferry (Ōarai⇄Tomakomai)
- Operator: MOL Sunflower. Evening service (Ōarai 18:45 → next-day 13:30) and an overnight service; about 19 hours.
- Motorcycle slots: Subject to seasonal demand; in summer, book 2–3 months ahead — bike spaces fill first.
- Cabins: Range from Tourist S (shared sleeping area) to private rooms. The recovery delta on a long crossing is real.
- On board: Public bath, restaurant, and observation deck; charge phones in the cabin area.
Sapporo and the Akarenga (Former Government Office) area
- Former Hokkaido Government Office (Akarenga): Completed 1888, neo-Baroque style; designated an Important Cultural Property of Japan.
- Around Sapporo Station: Hotels and restaurants are concentrated here; check parking for bikes and underground lots when booking.
- Miso ramen: Sumire, Ayami, and Ichiryūan are local standards. Sumire usually has a queue.
Tomakomai → Sapporo access
- Dōō Expressway (Tomakomai-higashi → Sapporo-minami): About 1 hour. Best when you're worn out from the ferry.
- National Route 36: About 2 hours on surface roads, with traffic lights and congestion piling fatigue on.
- Don't push it on day one — check in early and save the city walk for the next morning.