Morning in Nemuro, riding back out toward Cape Nosappu. Last evening I'd just looked at the sea from the lighthouse before the sun went down, so this morning I wanted to take time at the Northern Territories Museum near the cape.
Cape Nosappu / Northern Territories Museum — return movement and signatures
Near the cape there's a museum about the Northern Territories. It explains how they came to be lost and how the return movement has continued. The map showing the position of the islands at a glance stayed with me.
From the deck the same view as the night before — sea and the Habomai islands. Only a few kilometers, and yet that's Japanese territory you can't simply visit. They asked for a signature in support of the return movement; I signed without hesitating. Standing here, looking at the islands with my own eyes, in front of that statue, the issue stops being abstract.
Into Shiretoko National Park
Out of Nemuro and north toward Shiretoko. At a facility along the way, I saw a brown bear taxidermy mount. The scale is in another league from the Asian black bear of the main island. Picturing something this size walking the Hokkaido mountains makes you ride the forest roads with more care.
Shiretoko Five Lakes exceeded what I'd pictured. From the boardwalk, the Shiretoko mountain range reflects in the lake surface; with no wind it becomes a perfect mirror. There are areas with restricted access during brown bear activity, but on this day all the trails were open. It earns its World Natural Heritage status.
The Road to Heaven — 28 km of straight line
On the way back to Shari from Shiretoko Five Lakes, I stopped at the start point of the "Road to Heaven." A roughly 28 km straight road from Shari Town toward Mt. Unabetsu, named for the way the road runs straight on past the horizon. Lit by low pre-sunset light, the road really did look like it was being drawn into the sky.
Tonight's lodging is in Koshimizu Town. Tomorrow: Kaminoko Pond and Abashiri.