Morning in Nemuro, riding back out toward Cape Nosappu. Last evening I'd just looked at the sea from the lighthouse before the sun went down, so this morning I wanted to take time at the Northern Territories Museum near the cape.
Cape Nosappu / Northern Territories Museum — return movement and signatures
Near the cape there's a museum about the Northern Territories. It explains how they came to be lost and how the return movement has continued. The map showing the position of the islands at a glance stayed with me.
From the deck the same view as the night before — sea and the Habomai islands. Only a few kilometers, and yet that's Japanese territory you can't simply visit. They asked for a signature in support of the return movement; I signed without hesitating. Standing here, looking at the islands with my own eyes, in front of that statue, the issue stops being abstract.
Into Shiretoko National Park
Out of Nemuro and north toward Shiretoko. At a facility along the way, I saw a brown bear taxidermy mount. The scale is in another league from the Asian black bear of the main island. Picturing something this size walking the Hokkaido mountains makes you ride the forest roads with more care.
Shiretoko Five Lakes exceeded what I'd pictured. From the boardwalk, the Shiretoko mountain range reflects in the lake surface; with no wind it becomes a perfect mirror. There are areas with restricted access during brown bear activity, but on this day all the trails were open. It earns its World Natural Heritage status.
The Road to Heaven — 28 km of straight line
On the way back to Shari from Shiretoko Five Lakes, I stopped at the start point of the "Road to Heaven." A roughly 28 km straight road from Shari Town toward Mt. Unabetsu, named for the way the road runs straight on past the horizon. Lit by low pre-sunset light, the road really did look like it was being drawn into the sky.
Tonight's lodging is in Koshimizu Town. Tomorrow: Kaminoko Pond and Abashiri.
Travel guide (general info)
※ This section combines public information with the author's notes; please confirm the latest fares, hours, and road conditions on the official sites.
Shiretoko National Park / Shiretoko Five Lakes
- World Natural Heritage: inscribed by UNESCO in 2005 for the marine and terrestrial ecosystems shaped by drift ice
- Shiretoko Five Lakes: elevated boardwalk (barrier-free, free of charge) and ground-level trails (a brief lecture or a guide is required, depending on the season)
- Brown bear active period (around May 10 – July 31): the ground-level trails are accessible only with a registered guide; access is also limited during the vegetation-protection period
- Shiretoko Nature Center: information hub on the Utoro side; check the latest brown bear sightings here
Road to Heaven
- Location: about 28 km of straight ups and downs spanning Routes 244 and 334 in Shari Town
- Viewpoint: the "Road to Heaven Start Point" lookout sits along Route 334 with parking
- Best time of day: front-lit in the morning, back-lit at sunset — both are beautiful; in summer you can ride it from around 5 a.m.
Driving notes for eastern Hokkaido
- Shiretoko Pass (Route 334) is closed in winter (early November – late April) and often foggy in summer too
- Deer and foxes appear most often around dawn and from dusk into night — keep speeds down
- Refuel in hubs like Shari, Koshimizu, and Shibetsu; the tip of the Shiretoko Peninsula has very few stations