In August 2022 I rode out to the Noto Peninsula. It juts out from the north of Ishikawa Prefecture into the Sea of Japan. Known as a tourist destination, but somehow this was the first time I'd actually gone.
Sōji-ji Soin
The first stop after arriving in Noto was Sōji-ji Soin, the predecessor temple to Sōji-ji, the head temple of the Sōtō Zen sect. It's in Monzen-machi, Wajima City.
Standing in front of the mountain gate, I lost a bit of my words at the sheer size of it. A heavy, three-bay wooden gate against a blue sky. Almost no other visitors. In the silence I stood there longer than I'd planned.
Sashimi with gold leaf on top
On the way back from Noto, I had dinner at an izakaya in Kanazawa called Wadai. Among all the seafood, the sashimi came out with gold leaf on top of it. First time seeing sashimi served with gold leaf.
It doesn't really change the taste. But the impulse to put it on the dish at all is very Kanazawa — there's a kind of "this isn't every day" quality to it. I thought about how Kanazawa's gold-leaf culture has worked its way down even into izakaya plates.
Across the meal, the food in Noto was good. Stating the obvious — the sea is right there — but everything I tried was a hit.
Noto carried a "far away" feeling for me, and I'd been putting it off. Once you actually go, it's not that far. Make it to the tip of the peninsula and you have sea, you have mountains, and the food is good. Should have come sooner.
Travel guide (general info)
※ This section combines public information with the author's notes; please confirm the latest road, weather, and operating details on the official sites.
※ Since the January 2024 Noto Peninsula earthquake, several roads and venues in Wajima, Suzu and surrounding areas remain closed or suspended. Always check current conditions before going.
Highlights of the Noto Peninsula
- Sōji-ji Soin (Sōtō Zen): Founded 1321, in Monzen-machi, Wajima City. The original head temple before Sōji-ji moved to Yokohama.
- Shiroyone Senmaida: The terraced rice paddies of Shiroyone in Wajima — emblem of the "Noto's Satoyama and Satoumi" Globally Important Agricultural Heritage Site.
- Wajima Morning Market: A market with roots back to the Heian period; one of Japan's three great morning markets (operating at reduced scale since the earthquake).
- Chirihama Nagisa Driveway: The only beach in Japan you can drive a car or motorcycle on (Hakui to Hōdatsushimizu).
Kanazawa food culture
- Gold leaf: About 99% of Japan's production comes from Kanazawa. Sprinkling it on food traces back to the Kaga clan's "million-koku" culture.
- Ōmichō Market: "Kanazawa's kitchen" — a concentration of seafood-bowl and sushi shops.
- Nodoguro, sweet shrimp, gas-ebi: Signature Sea-of-Japan ingredients, distributed from Noto's ports up to Kanazawa.
- Kaga cuisine: Jibu-ni, kabura-zushi, and Noto's ishiru fish sauce — a tradition rich in fermented foods.
Access and route choice
- Noto Satoyama Kaidō: Free expressway between Kanazawa and Anamizu. Recovery from earthquake damage is ongoing — check current status before riding.
- Noto Satoyama Airport: Two flights a day from Tokyo (Haneda); a useful gateway to Noto.
- Hokuriku Shinkansen: Extended to Tsuruga in March 2024; about 2.5 hours Tokyo to Kanazawa.
- Best season: Late spring (May–June) for fresh greenery, autumn (September–November) for seafood. Winter brings snow and strong wind — take care.