Out of Obihiro, through Kushiro, aiming for Nemuro. East across eastern Hokkaido, all day. Along Route 38 the scenery is plains and pastureland; pick up the speed and the XSR900's three cylinders sing.
Kushiro — Kushichan Shokudō (inside Kushiro Suisan Center)
In central Kushiro I stopped at the Kushiro Suisan Center. A market that gathers Kushiro's seafood, and one of the standard sightseeing stops in town. After a long ride from the morning, first thing was lunch at Kushichan Shokudō inside the building.
Akkeshi — an unexpected distillery and oysters
From Kushiro toward Nemuro I decided to pull into Akkeshi Town. No particular plan, but it turned out to be a hit.
Akkeshi is known for its whisky distillery. Akkeshi Distillery is one of the most-watched distilleries in Japan's craft-whisky boom, located near the Kiritappu Wetlands. I noticed it by chance while riding and thought, "It was here?" 🥃
And Akkeshi means oysters. Hokkaido's leading oyster region, with raw oysters available year-round. The raw oysters I had at the roadside station "Conchiglie" had big plump bodies and a deep sea flavor.
Cape Nosappu Lighthouse — easternmost point at dusk
Past Akkeshi, further east. Through central Nemuro and on out to Cape Nosappu. The easternmost cape on the Japanese mainland, with the Northern Territories visible across the water. I wanted at least to see the lighthouse before the sun dropped.
Just beyond the horizon, the silhouettes of islands. The Habomai. They're Japanese territory, but you can't simply go there. They're only a few kilometers away — and yet. Standing in front of that cape, the "Northern Territories" you read about in textbooks suddenly becomes a present, close-at-hand thing. I'd save the museum for tomorrow morning and head back into Nemuro.
Nemuro — crab
Back in town by evening. Nemuro is the easternmost city in Japan; for dinner I went after Nemuro's signature dish — crab.
The crab from "Medetai," served in a wooden box, was packed full and sweet. Tomorrow morning I'll head back near Cape Nosappu for the Northern Territories museum, and then on toward Shiretoko.
Travel guide (general info)
※ This section combines public information with the author's notes; please confirm the latest fares, hours, and road conditions on the official sites.
Akkeshi Distillery
- Location: 4-109-2 Miyazono, Akkeshi — near Akkeshi Lake on the Pacific coast
- Founded: 2016, operated by Kenten Jitsugyo — a flagship of Japanese craft distilleries
- Concept: peated single malts that draw on a cool, damp climate similar to Islay
- Tours: by reservation only (official site); check the latest information before visiting
- Akkeshi oysters: Akkeshi Lake is a natural oyster farm; the fishery co-op's "Oyster Festival" venue is popular with visitors
Cape Nosappu and the Northern Territories
- Cape Nosappu Lighthouse: Hokkaido's easternmost light, first lit in 1872 (one of the oldest in Hokkaido)
- Northern Territories: on clear days, Kaigara-jima of the Habomai group is visible to the naked eye, only about 3.7 km away
- Hoppōkan / Bōkyō no Ie: hub of the territories return movement, with free exhibits and telescopes
Seafood in Kushiro and Nemuro
- Kushichan Shokudō (in Kushiro Suisan Center): generous seafood bowls; mornings are liveliest with the adjacent market
- Nemuro crab: hanasaki crab (summer), hairy crab (year-round); king and snow crab on local menus are mostly imported
- Refueling note: gas stations are sparse on inland routes between Kushiro and Nemuro — the coastal route is recommended