Leaving Granada behind, I stopped in a town called Masaya on the way to the capital, Managua.
Masaya — a treasury of folk crafts
Masaya is famous for crafts. The variety and volume of what's stacked in the market is more than any market in Costa Rica I've seen. Colorful hammocks, woodwork, ceramics, textiles — Nicaragua's distinct hand-craft culture, all in one place.
I knew buying too much would just become luggage, but my hand kept reaching out anyway. I picked up a small hammock-shaped keychain and pressed on.
Managua — "the place with much water"
"Managua" means "the place with much water" in Nahuatl. As advertised, Lake Managua spreads across the city. You can look at it, but pollution has gone far enough that swimming is out of the question. "OK, there's the lake" was about as far as my reaction got.
Managua is among the Central American capitals where tourism infrastructure is still developing. There aren't many sights, and the polish of Costa Rica or Granada is something for the future — but the city has a plain, unaffected air.
Reuniting with friends
The real reason I came to Managua wasn't sightseeing. Friends I'd met in Costa Rica were now living here, and I'd come this far to see them after a long time.
That night they treated me to Japanese food at their place. Eating Japanese food in the middle of Central America was something else. Travel makes you grateful for the everyday meals you usually take for granted.
Maybe the most important thing about traveling isn't the place but the people who are there. Managua, to me, is more "a city to go visit people in" than a sightseeing town. The night with my friends, at least, was the best.
The next morning, I said a reluctant goodbye and got on the long-distance bus to my next destination, León.