January 2025, I went back to Costa Rica. The last time was 2015, when I was on assignment as a JICA volunteer. This time I came as a tourist, just to look around.
San José at Night
I walked through the center of San José at night. On streets I'd known well from 2013–2015, what's changed and what's stayed the same alternated as I went. New cafés in old buildings, buildings exactly as I remembered, sidewalks that had been redone.
The Teatro Nacional (National Theater) in central San José was unchanged. Built in 1897 to celebrate Costa Rica's coffee harvests, lit up at night. It stood there beside the Costa Rican flag, exactly as before.
How San José Has Changed
Walking San José in the daytime, the changes over ten years are clear. More tall buildings. Repaved roads. The city is a bit cleaner overall.
I Couldn't Make It to San Vito
The town in southern Costa Rica where I lived from 2013 to 2015 is San Vito. There wasn't time on this trip to go.
It is what it is. Still, only passing through stayed with me a bit. Next time I'll make time.
The Food Was Still Good
At a soda for lunch I had yellow rice and stewed meat. Close to a Costa Rican casado, the kind of plate I remembered. The rice-and-bean combination is everywhere in Central America, but Costa Rica's still tasted a little different.
Pilsen and Imperial Hadn't Changed
That night at a restaurant I had a Pilsen Clásica. Costa Rica's beer since 1888, and what I drank during my volunteer years. Pour it into a glass and the white head rises. One sip and the memories come back.
Another evening I had an Imperial. Costa Rica's other staple beer, with the iconic eagle on the label. The bottle came in a 100th-anniversary label. With Pilsen and Imperial side by side, it really hits you that you're back.
Going back as a tourist to a country where you used to live is a strange feeling. Same place, but the relationship has shifted. What you see is different.
Next time, San Vito.
Travel Guide (general info)
※ This section combines public information with the author's notes; please confirm the latest fares, hours, and travel advisories on the official sites.
San José sightseeing essentials
- Teatro Nacional (National Theatre of Costa Rica): completed in 1897, a neoclassical theater built during the country's coffee-export golden age
- Plaza de la Cultura and the central post office: a natural starting point for walking tours, with the Mercado Central nearby
- Pre-Columbian Gold Museum and Jade Museum: exhibits of pre-Columbian gold and jade craft, both within walking distance
- Safety: the city center is more orderly than it used to be. At night, stick to busy main avenues
Costa Rica's classic beers
- Imperial: launched in 1924, the country's iconic brand symbolized by its black eagle logo. A light, crisp pilsner
- Pilsen: founded in 1888, Costa Rica's oldest beer, a slightly fuller-bodied lager
- Both brands are widely available in restaurants and supermarkets in tourist areas
Ten years on: what changed and what didn't
- Changes: widespread mobile payments, ride-hailing apps (Uber/DiDi), expanded airport terminals
- Constants: the "Pura Vida" greeting, gallo pinto for breakfast, neighborhood café culture
A map and a guide to San José and the nearby cities go a long way — whether you're returning or coming for the first time, one English-language guidebook makes sorting out transport, lodging, and where to eat much smoother.
