I arrived on Ometepe Island late on a Saturday afternoon. With no buses running on Sunday, I hired a guide for about US$40 — a bit steep at first glance, but far more efficient than crossing the island alone by motorbike taxi.
Ojo de Agua
First stop: Ojo de Agua. A river running through the middle of the island, set up for visitors. The name means "eye of water" — the clarity is striking, and the water feels great. I regretted not bringing a swimsuit.
Charco Verde and the museum
Around Charco Verde there's a butterfly garden ($5), a viewpoint where you can spot monkeys ($3), and a small island museum. The museum displays indigenous artifacts dug up on the island; entry is just $1.
Indigenous ruins
In a town called Santa Cruz there's an indigenous site attached to a hotel. Entry is $1. Without a guide you'd walk right past it — but with one, you keep getting "wait, that was here?" moments.
Food and a church
Lunch at a local restaurant in Moyogalpa. About $2 for a main. This is one of the things I love about Central American prices.
The blackouts on the island are a downside, but the place is clean and quiet. With buses scarce, hiring a guide is well worth it. Ometepe ended up being one of my favorite spots in Nicaragua.