January 2025, I went back to Costa Rica. The last time was 2015, when I was on assignment as a JICA volunteer. This time I came as a tourist, just to look around.
San José at Night
I walked through the center of San José at night. On streets I'd known well from 2013–2015, what's changed and what's stayed the same alternated as I went. New cafés in old buildings, buildings exactly as I remembered, sidewalks that had been redone.
The Teatro Nacional (National Theater) in central San José was unchanged. Built in 1897 to celebrate Costa Rica's coffee harvests, lit up at night. It stood there beside the Costa Rican flag, exactly as before.
How San José Has Changed
Walking San José in the daytime, the changes over ten years are clear. More tall buildings. Repaved roads. The city is a bit cleaner overall.
I Couldn't Make It to San Vito
The town in southern Costa Rica where I lived from 2013 to 2015 is San Vito. There wasn't time on this trip to go.
It is what it is. Still, only passing through stayed with me a bit. Next time I'll make time.
The Food Was Still Good
At a soda for lunch I had yellow rice and stewed meat. Close to a Costa Rican casado, the kind of plate I remembered. The rice-and-bean combination is everywhere in Central America, but Costa Rica's still tasted a little different.
Pilsen and Imperial Hadn't Changed
That night at a restaurant I had a Pilsen Clásica. Costa Rica's beer since 1888, and what I drank during my volunteer years. Pour it into a glass and the white head rises. One sip and the memories come back.
Another evening I had an Imperial. Costa Rica's other staple beer, with the iconic eagle on the label. The bottle came in a 100th-anniversary label. With Pilsen and Imperial side by side, it really hits you that you're back.
Going back as a tourist to a country where you used to live is a strange feeling. Same place, but the relationship has shifted. What you see is different. Next time, San Vito.