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Out of Monbetsu, north up the Okhotsk coast. Today's destination is Wakkanai. A day of riding straight up to the very top of northern Hokkaido.

The national road along the Sea of Okhotsk alternates between sea and pasture, a great route. Riding with the sea on the right keeps reminding you that yes — this is Hokkaido.

Lost the wallet in Esashi Town

Just after pulling out of the roadside station "Marine Island Okajima" in Esashi Town, something felt off. I checked the side case — wallet gone.

The zipper was open. The wallet must have flown out while I was riding.

I doubled back immediately and searched the road. Nothing. Even after retracing the road for over thirty minutes, no sign of it. At one point I thought, "It's gone." Forget the cash — replacing the cards, the insurance ID… worst-case scenarios started cycling in my head.

Esashi Town sign
Esashi Town. Hadn't expected the day to take a turn here.

The notification from the AirTag

Just as I was about to give up, my phone buzzed. A notification from an AirTag: "Wallet has moved."

I'd put an AirTag inside the wallet. The location showed — Esashi Police Station.

I rushed over. At the front desk: "I think someone may have turned in a wallet." It came out right away. A local had picked it up and brought it in. Everything still inside.

Esashi Police Station
Esashi Police Station. Where the wallet had been turned in. Genuinely saved by this.

Picking up the wallet, I almost cried — honestly. Someone had taken the time to bring a stranger-traveler's wallet all the way to the police. A moment of touching the kindness of people in Hokkaido.

Hokkaido is the best. Esashi Town is the best. Always put an AirTag in your wallet.

Composed myself and rode on to Wakkanai. Lesson of the day: always check your side case zipper.

Esanuka Line
The Esanuka Line. Sarufutsu Village's straight road continuing to the horizon.

Wakkanai night

Made it to central Wakkanai. Dinner: a meaty rice bowl.

Roast beef bowl in Wakkanai
The roast beef bowl I had in Wakkanai. The meat was tender and good.

Today's route

1
Roadside Station Marine Island Okajima
332-1 Menashidomari, Esashi Town, Esashi District, Hokkaido / Roadside station overlooking the Sea of Okhotsk.
2
Esashi Police Station
56 Sakae-cho, Esashi Town, Esashi District, Hokkaido / Where the wallet, brought in by a local, was waiting. Nothing but gratitude.